Gartenblick, VI

Area: Papstein & Gohrisch   Peak: Papst

As usual, I suggested “let’s start with something easy”. The Gartenblick seemed to be a good warm-up choice. Once again, I forgot the maxim the warm-up is the workout. Bloody VIs! How come I always underestimate this grade? For Gartenblick, the two small overhangs looked simple enough and I swear I saw plenty of grips. Indeed, this was the case for the first few meters. Although the rock quality was exceptional, I was starting to feel a bit uneasy with the sketchy pro. But look! That is a perfect huge block with jugs for resting! A solid knot only strengthened the AHA! effect… which lasted only until I realized that: 1) the block was loose and started to wobble as soon as I shifted my weight, 2) there were no good holds near the overhang, 3) I had to get on top of the block and push down to reach the best holds. Since there are few things I dislike more than loose blocks, I leave the battle for another day and take a detour to the right, on the crack-dihedral of the neighboring III. After that it’s done: an easier slab and a short vertical section leave us at the belay. So much for an easy start. At least were warm for the next routes!

To keep you awake, a healthy dose of slabby runouts.

L.H. on the easier detour

Almost at the AÖ!

Andacht, VIIa

Area: Papstein & Gohrisch   Peak: Papst

Though starting to feel tired, we both wanted to finish the day with still another route. Since long time, I’d seen nice pictures and great reviews of the Andacht. Shouldn’t we give it a try?

“Won’t it be too cold?” Luckily for us, the weather played in our favor. With the low temperatures and overcast sky, this otherwise crowded route was all for ourselves! Excited by the promise of good climbing, I chose the vertical section with good holds to reach the plateau where the proper route starts. Once there, I was surprised by how the route did not look as intimidating as it did in the pictures. If only the howling wind gave us a break! Without thinking much about it, I started up a less-than-vertical wall, which promised a straightforward trip to the first ring. However, this short section with sharp small edges but no protection demanded concentration. Bigger holds and an intermediate SU led then to the second ring. This was starting to feel like a sport climb! After some failed attempts at solving this section, I managed to place the hands on the strategic pockets. I’ve reached the exit jugs! It’s hard to accept that, in reality, the route was very short. But the speed at which I recovered Xico confirmed it. Until the crux, where he struggled with some slopers before finding the key pockets.

At the top the wind continued to bite through our layers. With the traditional, but unceremonious, “Berg Heil” we quickly climbed down. We’ve logged in another short but pleasant day of climbing at Papst.

Relaxed on the first section

It gets more interesting when the edges get smaller!

Aiming for the jugs

Is that the good hold?

Talriss, VI

Area: Papstein & Gohrisch   Peak: Papst

Rock quality: 3 Pro: 3 Line: 3 Scenery: 4 Weather: 4 Total: 3.4  (Ratings explained)

The moment I saw it I thought it was a route with character. It is certainly not among the top lines in Elbsandstein, but it stands out from the crowd of “sport” routes that populate Papst. The start, an intimidating overhanging crack next to a steep drop to the valley, is very impressive and might turn many away. Luckily, one can overcome this section by climbing on the wall directly to the ring while using the crack for solid knots. The next meters should become easier, or at least I thought so from the descriptions of other climbers: small steep overhangs with comfortable jugs. Alas, my poor overhang-technique together with massive rope-drag (do not forget to extend the slings before and after the ring!) turned this into a long fight. Above, the roofs turn into a gentle slab with great views and the occasional sanduhr for protection. Once again, it will be a massive sanduhr what will signal the end of the route and a perfect spot to recover your partner.

In summary, the Talriss is a great adventure that adds variety to the more regular direct routes of Papst. With so many features and climbing styles (dihedral, crack, overhang, slab) you will not get bored!

Struggling with the wind on the exit slab

Südverschneidung, V

Area: Papstein & Gohrisch   Peak: Papst

Rock quality: 4 Pro: 3 Line: 3 Scenery: 3 Weather: 4 Total: 3.4  (Ratings explained)

The first detonation startled us. I do not remember if we heard the next one before or after seeing the man with the rifle blocking the path. He had seen us, too late to go back. We cautiously approached and relaxed as we learned he was just a hunter. With a heavy accent we barely understood he told us it was dangerous to continue because we were crossing hunting ground. To which he casually added: “no, no, we don’t shoot directly at you. But a bullet could rebound and take out your eye.” Even with my poor understanding of Sächsisch I could clearly get the meaning of that last part. “At least I’m wearing bright colored clothes”, said my friend. Unfortunately, with my choice of clothes I could not share his joy: dark pants and dark brown pullover. In fact, I would be lucky if I was not mistaken for the boar! Yet, having mustered the courage to get out of bed on a very cold Sunday we were not willing to wait several hours before the hunters finished. So spurred by the adrenaline kick, we sprinted up the steep slopes first to a field, then a town and did not really stop until we dropped the bags at the base of the Papst.

Several months ago I had my eyes set on the Südverschneidung. This is a very short route perfect for practicing dihedral climbing techniques. Both its grade and the very generous protection make it ideal for beginners and quick warm-ups. And it is in the southern sunny side! However, very soon I learned the true meaning of the sunny icon in the guidebook. True, the rock was dry but also completely exposed to the wind. This is a great advantage during summer, but in our current condition it meant we would need to continue moving to avoid feeling chilly. Maybe it was the howling wind, but I found the first couple of stemming moves were the hardest. Luckily, there were perfect knot-placements almost every meter. After the hole and the small overhag to the left, the grips got bigger and the perfect hand jams considerably accelerated my climbing. Again, throughout I found plenty of medium to big-sized knot placements. The last section was a simple and comfortable chimney without protection but with much needed shelter from the strong wind. At the top, two huge sanduhrs told me I had found the belay station. Luckily, being so close to the chimney I could still crouch  to guard off the wind while belaying. My partner followed quickly and promptly expressed his satisfaction with the route. I assured him that more woud quickly follow and, without wasting any more time, started the fast descent downclimbing the easy chimneys on the north.

Plenty of slings below and above me

X.G. finding the best position to reach the chimney stance

Plenty of options to build a solid belay.

Grosse Hunskirche

Area: Papstein & Gohrisch

Routes: 4 Surroundings: 3 Form: 4 Approach: 4 (2 without bus or car) Total: 3.75 (or 3.25)  (Ratings explained)

At some point during your hike from the Elbe you will notice a remarkable tower. Most probably you will be impressed by its steep faces rising out from the forest. After speeding up and reaching the base of the climbs, it becomes evident that all walls are decorated with pockets and holes of all shapes and sizes. This is the trademark climbing at the Grosse Hunskirche: athletic long moves on good holds. The rock, with a beautiful pattern of red and white hues, is exceptionally solid, so you can concentrate on pulling hard on the structures at hand. The usually frequent protection (going from 2-finger-sized to body-sized sanduhrs) makes all the climbs a more relaxed (for Saxonian standards) but still challenging adventure.

Route lengths vary widely, from the easier routes on the southern faces of little more than 15 m to the longer harder favorites on the north and west walls of up to 50 m. Most lines reach a huge ledge with many choices for a solid belay. From this point, there are several variants to go up the proper peak, a short boulder perched on top of the plateau. Both the approach and the surrounding areas are comfortable enough for whole-family visits. Overall, the Grosse Hunskirche is the perfect spot to have a sächsische sport-like climbing day!

Routes

(click on the links below to go to the available route description and/or pictures)

1. Alter Weg, III	2. Variante, III	3. Südkante, V
4. Hunsmission, VI	5. Südwand, V	6. Hunsattacke, VI
7. Neuer Südwestweg / Gipfelstürmerweg, VI	8. Aprilvariante, VIIIa	9. Südwestweg/Strubichweg, V
10. Neue Südwand, VIIc	11. Kurz und Knapp, VIIc	12. Direkter Südwestweg/Strubichweg, VIIc
13. Spätsommertour, VIIIb	14. Trallala!, VIIIb	15. Westkante, VIIIb RP VIIIc
16. Aufschwung West, IX	17. Privatweg, VIIIb RP VIIIc	18. Top-Ausstieg, VIIIb RP VIIIc
19. Norwestwand, VIIIc RP IXa	20. Bürgersteig, VIIIc RP IXa	21. Nordwestkante, VIIIc RP IXa (21a. variante, IXb)
22. Nordwand, VIIc	23. Direkte Nordwand, VIIc	24. Kindertag, VIIIa
25. Nummer 7, VIIIa RP VIIIb	26. Gerader Weg, VIIIa	27. Schnurgerade, VIIIa
28. Verlorene Illusion, VIIc	29. Ausstiegsvariante, VIIc	30. Vollstandige Verlorene Illusion, VIIc RP VIIIa
31. Pfigstweg, VIIb	32. Flipper, VIIIa	33. Querweg, VIIa
34. Nordostweg, VI (not shown)	35. Neuer Weg, III (not shown)	36. Paragleiter, 4/II (not shown)
37. Freudensprung, 3/III (not shown)

Papst

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Area: Papstein & Gohrisch Routes: 4 Surroundings: 3 Form: 2 Approach: 4 Total: 3.25  (Ratings explained) The Papst is a perfect peak for a relaxed weekend of “sport” climbing. It boasts many short routes (~ 20 meters), most of them … Continue reading →