Hinterer Gansfels

Area: Rathen

Some peaks fail to make a strong impression. Where was it exactly? Where did the route go? When did I climb it? The Hinterer Gansfels falls in the other end of the spectrum. In fact, it is so memorable that you can often find this peak in postcards and films (including the recent Hansel & Gretel: Witch hunters!). Its whole shape is better appreciated from the Bastei bridge, where you’ll marvel at the size of this magnificent tower. Of course, this makes for long adventurous routes with great exposure.

The route grades are well spread: from easy scrambles in chimneys to impressive overhanging arêtes. However, unless you feel at ease with your chosen grade, I would not recommend it for first leads. One (of the many) highlights of the Hinterer Gansfels is the classic Arymmundweg, perhaps the best VIIa in the area. One can hardly believe it was climbed in 1908! For an “alpine” feeling, it is better to start the routes directly from the path at the bottom. The nearly 80 m of chimneys, traverses and overhangs will test the versatility of your climbing skills. On the contrary, if you want to log plenty of harder face-climbs, better hike up the steep path towards high plateau at the SW corner. This spot is also a good place for letting children play in the soft sand.

As is the standard for Rathen, the rock is sandy and, in some sections, extremely brittle. So always be careful when pulling on those seemingly solid black plaques! At the top you can make a pause for inspecting the southern faces of the Grosser Gans and its huge collection of great routes. Or why not take some time to map the difficult test-pieces of the northern faces at the Wehltürme or the Mönch? Either way, the broad and comfortable summit plateau is excellent for enjoying the views in Rathen.

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Routes

(click on the links below to go to the available route description and/or pictures)

#

Name

Grade

#

Name

Grade

1

Alter Weg II

26

Knecht 2 / IXb RP IXc

2

Emporweg VIIb

27

Stiefel 2 / VIIIa

3

Nordostkamin II

28

Arymundweg VIIa

4

Cancan VIIIa

29

Westkante VIIIb

5

Rumba VIIIc RP IXa

30

Luftiger Ausstieg VIIIb

6

Nordostwand V

31

Direkte Westkante VIIIb

7

Abendvorstellung VIIb RP VIIc

32

Reissigweg VIIb

8

Nordostweg VI

33

Grosses Einmaleins VIIIa

9

Kluftweg IV

34

Zwischenenergebnis VIIc

10

Meurerweg I

35

Blockkamin I

11

Schusterkamin I

36

Südwestriss V

12

Frühlingserwachen VIIa

37

Pfeilervariante V

13

Räkelvariante VIIa

38

Neue Südwestwand VIIIa

14

Neuer Südweg VIIa

39

Südwestwand VIIc (VIIIa)

15

Fragliche Rippe VIIa

40

EV zur Südwestwand VIIIa

16

Fit for fun VIIIb RP VIIIc

41

Henningweg VIIa (VIIb)

17

Trainingskante VIIIb RP VIIIc

42

Frühlingsvariante VIIa (VIIb)

18

Karlsbader Weg VIIIb

43

Sommervariante VIIb

19

Südweg IV

44

Variante zum Henningweg VIIb

20

Positiv VIIIa RP VIIIb

45

Nordweg IV

21

Gänsetod durch Birkenkraut VIIIb

46

Variante zum Nordweg VIIa

22

Schrottsammlung VIIc RP VIIIa

47

Nordostvariante zum Nordweg (not shown) V

23

Nur für Dich 2 / VIIIa

48

Nordpfeiler VI

24

Durchschlupf III

49

Selbstbherrschung (not shown) IXc

25

Südpfeiler VIIIa

50

So ein Theater (not shown) VIIIc

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