Talriss, VI

Area: Papstein & Gohrisch   Peak: Papst

Rock quality: 3 Pro: 3 Line: 3 Scenery: 4 Weather: 4 Total: 3.4  (Ratings explained)

The moment I saw it I thought it was a route with character. It is certainly not among the top lines in Elbsandstein, but it stands out from the crowd of “sport” routes that populate Papst. The start, an intimidating overhanging crack next to a steep drop to the valley, is very impressive and might turn many away. Luckily, one can overcome this section by climbing on the wall directly to the ring while using the crack for solid knots. The next meters should become easier, or at least I thought so from the descriptions of other climbers: small steep overhangs with comfortable jugs. Alas, my poor overhang-technique together with massive rope-drag (do not forget to extend the slings before and after the ring!) turned this into a long fight. Above, the roofs turn into a gentle slab with great views and the occasional sanduhr for protection. Once again, it will be a massive sanduhr what will signal the end of the route and a perfect spot to recover your partner.

In summary, the Talriss is a great adventure that adds variety to the more regular direct routes of Papst. With so many features and climbing styles (dihedral, crack, overhang, slab) you will not get bored!

Struggling with the wind on the exit slab