Exploring all the secrets in Schmilkaer Gebiet takes time. Probably, you’ll be amazed by its notable collection of huge vertical south faces. In many cases, the size of the peaks makes it difficult to distinguish them from Massiv rock formations. Just looking at them is an invitation for adventurous climbing! But there is much more to be discovered amidst the many ravines in the forest. You’ll find closely packed towers that give rise to characteristic rock formations, such as the Rauschenstein, Bussard or Lehne groups. These can be anything from few small needles clustered together to massive rock cathedrals. Of course, the lone-standing towers are also there, with the iconic Teufelsturm dominating the plateau above the Elbe.
With such heterogeneity, there is always an area for any time during the year. Cold winter? Run to the sunny faces of the Bussardwand, Fluchtwand or Böser Turm. Scorching summer? Seek the shade of the Lange Wand or the Fünf Gipfel group. Naturally, there is also a great variety in the climbing and you’ll find world-class routes in almost all styles: sustained walls, exposed arêtes, splitter cracks and dark chimneys. However, there are few beginner-friendly routes, as most easy routes need more climbing skills (complex route reading, sparse protection, long descents). Overall, the area is best enjoyed starting from the middle grades (VI onwards). Rock quality is usually good, although many peaks have many brittle sections where extreme care is required. Most approaches start directly from the town of Schmilka, which is easily reached both by car and train. Importantly, at the end of the town there is one of the few clean-water sources in the National Park, perfect for resupplying before or during extended trips. Walk-ins are usually long, with at least a good 20 minutes on steep slopes followed by scrambles or stair climbing. Although the majority of peaks can be reached by following well-marked paths, some approaches are an adventure on itself. On the bright side, you’ll find multiple caves and overhangs for overnight stays (boofen), making it easy to prolong your visits and maximize climbing time by sleeping right next to the rocks.
If you’re looking for moderate or hard adventurous climbs with great views and away from crowds, then Schmilkaer Gebiet is your best bet!
Currently I have 1 topo for this area:
1. Böser Turm