Sandlochwächter

Area: Affensteine

Hidden by deep valleys and chasms, the Sandlochwächter waits expectantly for the patient climber. The long approach gives enough time to choose from a myriad of excellent climbs. That is, if you do not get distracted by the fantastic sight of the Dom spires while crossing the narrow rock bridge toward the Sandloch group.

Unlike the majority of Affensteine peaks, the Sandlochwächter is an oasis of moderate (VII) climbs on excellent rock. Remarkably, most of them are friction climbs. Thus, it is an ideal place to gain mileage on the famous Sächsische Reibung. Protection is adequate to excellent. However, a few routes have large runouts with dangerous ground-fall potential.

The south face, with its clear view to the forest and long direct lines, is by far the most visited sector. Thanks to the long approach you will hardly find crowds here, but it is possible to see queues on the most popular routes. This face is not a good spot during the summer, when the high temperatures will greatly reduce friction at the rock. In such cases, the north face offers shade and cool temperatures. Although the north routes are not as spectacular, they are still fun and (mostly) well protected. Additionally, the belaying area is a comfortable sandy plateau ideal for families with children.

When you have had enough Reibung, you can always have a short hike towards the Insel or Sandlochturm for cracks and dihedrals. And, if one day is not enough, why not plan an overnight stay at the outstanding Sandlochboofe? If you want to start exploring Affensteine’s secrets, the Sandlochwächter is a good bet.

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Routes

(click on the links below to go to the available route description and/or pictures)

#

Name

Grade

#

Name

Grade

1

Alter Weg

III

15

Westwand

VIIc

2

Plattige Wand

VI

16

Lange Variante

VIIc

3

Ordinate

VIIa

17

Kurze Variante

VIIc

4

Saugarme

VIIIb

18

Hohe Liebe

VIIb

5

Südwand

VI

19

Nordpfeiler

VIIIa

6

Verbindungsvariante

IV

20

Variante

VIIc RP VIIIa

7

Hoffnungsschimmer

VIIc

21

Nordwestkante

V

8

Direkte Südwand

VIIa

22

Schallpatten

V

9

Glücksklee

VIIIa

23

Ü-Ei

VI

10

Kleeblatt

VIIc

24

Mittagssonne

VIIa

11

Zentraler Überhang

VIIb

25

Direkte Mittagssonne

VIIa

12

Verlorene Liebe

VIIc RP VIIIa

26

Nordostweg

III

13

Brathähnchen

VIIIa

27

Bergrutsch

V

14

Später Versuch

VIIc RP VIIIa

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