Bussardwand

Area: Schmilkaer Gebiet

Among the plenty south faces in Schmilka, I am sure the Bussardwand has a special place. This tall, vertical face stands out with its incredible structures, smooth, solid rock and whimsical colors. As if this were not enough, the vast forest of the Heringsgrund serves as the background for unforgettable ascents.

The meat of this tower is at the south face. The game starts at VIIc (with one VIIb which is not as popular due to an endless wide crack) and is mostly about face climbing. The moves themselves are not hard, but the routes are continuous with short overhanging sections. Most likely the crux will be your endurance. To spice things up, rings are far apart and are sometimes the only available protection.

The style of the Bussardwand attracts the the more sport-climbing-oriented visitors of Sächsische Schweiz: endurance routes with clean (but long) falls and ALMOST no cracks or chimneys. This “almost” is critical, as all of the southern routes exit via an exposed traverse within an horizontal chimney. However, if this is not your cup of tea you can still rappel down from a huge ring below the characteristic roof. By the way, this same roof will protect routes during light rain, making this a top choice for those grey, uncertain days.

The fun does not end with the south face, though. At the top there is a small tower with a couple of short routes with entertaining chimneys and impressive views. Though the grades are considerably lower (II-VI) in this upper sector, the exposure is worth a visit.

Summing it up, the Bussardwand is an incredible wall perfect to break into the VIIc grade and offers great challenges for those in the VIII range. The approach walk is (as usual) uphill but comfortable and straightforward. If you are still undecided about visiting it, think it through while sleeping in the incredible bivouac sites next to the wall.

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Routes

(click on the links below to go to the available route description and/or pictures)

#

Name

Grade

#

Name

Grade

1

Alter Weg II

14

Sockelwand VIIIc

2

Variante V

15

Direkte Sockelwand VIIIc

3

Sanddüne VIIb

16

Talweg VIIb

4

Schartenweg VIIb

17

Michael Jackson VIIIb

5

Juniorenvariante VIIb

18

Bunte Wand VIIIa RP VIIIb

6

Nordostwand VIIa

19

Lange Variante VIIIb

7

Ostweg III

20

Südwand VIIc

8

Ostkante V

21

Gerade Südwand VIIIa RP VIIIb

9

Westweg VI

22

Direkte Südwand VIIc

10

Schulterschmerzen VIIa

23

Buntmalerei VIIIa RP VIIIb

11

Zittereinlage III/2

24

Linker Flügel VIIc

12

Innere Sicherheit (not shown) III

25

Der Versteckte VIIIb

13

Goldfinger IXc RP Xa

26

Direkter Versteckter VIIIb

Lehnkuppel

Area: Schmilkaer Gebiet

The Lehnkuppel is one of the gateways to the Schmilka area. Why? Not only the approach is short, but the area is relatively flat and friendly and the routes are relatively well protected. This is not the domain of the complex tortuous expeditions, but more of the straightforward crag-climbing route. Still, the view at the top will likely force you to stay longer.

Most of the routes have excellent rock quality. The south side is exposed to wind and sun and will dry relatively quickly after rain. The routes on this sector are mostly face climbs on the VIII range. However, if you are a VI-VII climber you’ll find a good playground to hone your crack skills with a couple of interesting dihedrals and wide cracks.

If you are still not convinced by this peak, consider that it’s right next to the Lehnriff (for those looking for lines in the VIII-X range) and the popular Lehnsteigtürme group. As if that were not enough, you’ll find a scenic and spacious bivouac site a few meters away from the south face.

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Routes

(click on the links below to go to the available route description and/or pictures)

#

Name

Grade

#

Name

Grade

1

Alter Weg

III

11

Variante

VIIa (VIIb)

2

Sommerweg

V

12

Nordwestweg

VIIb

3

Ostkante

VIIb

13

Erbschaft

VIIIa RP VIIIb

4

Wurzelblick

VIIc

14

Nordwand

VIIb

5

Gezogener Zahn

VIIIb

15

Stumpfe Kante

VIIIb

6

Paradontose

IXc

16

Lustmolch

VIIIc RP IXa

7

Südwand

VIIc (VIIIc)

17

Schartenlust

VIIa (VIIc)

8

Südweg

VI

18

Schartenlustkuss

VIIb (VIIc) RP VIIIa

9

Pfeilerkante

VIIa

19

Spontaner Sprung

3/III

10

Pfeilerriss

VI

Böser Turm

Area: Schmilkaer Gebiet

Routes: 4 Surroundings: 4 Form: 4 Approach: 3 Total: 3.75   (Ratings explained)

By no means let the name (Böse = sinister, bad, nasty) keep you away from this peak. In fact, the Böser Turm is one of the favorite destinations in the area: a small rounded tower perched in a narrow ledge overlooking a sea of trees. Therefore, it’s no surprise that despite its short stature all routes will give you an exciting feeling of exposure. Additionally, at the top you will have a privileged unobstructed view to many of Schmilka’s fantastic towers and faces. Yet, perhaps the main reason for the frequent visits to the Böser Turm is the quality of its routes. There are several classics suitable for beginners, including the must-do 1893 Alter Weg from Oscar Schuster. However, experienced climbers will also be thrilled by the airy traverses, cracks and small overhangs present on the various faces of the tower.

And it’s still not over as there are many more routes below! For those looking for an additional challenge, there are longer climbs starting directly from the forest up to the rocky ledge (routes 12-29). The grades are also much harder (VII-X) and, with some exceptions, the quality of both rock and protection is very good. These routes can be accessed by leaving the main path to the left before climbing the wooden stairs or by descending with a rope using the rappel station at the base of the main tower.

Another advantage of the Böser Turm is its prime location in the Lehnsteigturme group. Right next to the tower you’ll find plenty of routes of varied styles in the whole difficulty range. When you’re done, you can even sit down in spacious and sunny south-facing platform for lunch and enjoy the view towards the Elbe valley. With all these advantages, do not be surprised by encountering huge crowds on weekends queuing up for the classics.

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Routes

(click on the links below to go to the available route description and/or pictures)

1. Alter Weg, III 2. Variante, III (IV) 3. Bösewicht, VI
4. Böse Wand, VIIb 5. Südwand, V 6. SW-Weg, VIIa
7. Talweg, VIIc 8. Westkante, VIIb 9. NW-weg, VI
10. Abseilwand, VIIb RP VIIc 11. Nordwand, VIIb 12. Jenseits von Gut und Böse, VI
13. Böse Sieben, VIIa 14. Böse Onkelz, VIIIa 15. Alles wird gut!, VIIIa
16. Katerriss, VI 17. Intermezzo, VIIb 18. Wir sind die Guten!, VIIc RP VIIIa
19. Einstieg Variante, VIIc 20. Eine Hand voll Hoffnung, VIIc 21. Der Griff in die Sch…, VIIIc
22. Bergkristall, VIIIb RP VIIIc 23. Bleikristall, VIIIb RP VIIIc 24. Im Zeichen des Skorpions, Xb
25. Schlussspurt, VIIIb 26. Ersatzgeburt, VIIIc 27. Sockelkante, VIIIb RP VIIIc
28. Böse Fee, IXa RP IXb(removed) 29. Kleiner Stümper, IXa