Bussardwand

Area: Schmilkaer Gebiet

Among the plenty south faces in Schmilka, I am sure the Bussardwand has a special place. This tall, vertical face stands out with its incredible structures, smooth, solid rock and whimsical colors. As if this were not enough, the vast forest of the Heringsgrund serves as the background for unforgettable ascents.

The meat of this tower is at the south face. The game starts at VIIc (with one VIIb which is not as popular due to an endless wide crack) and is mostly about face climbing. The moves themselves are not hard, but the routes are continuous with short overhanging sections. Most likely the crux will be your endurance. To spice things up, rings are far apart and are sometimes the only available protection.

The style of the Bussardwand attracts the the more sport-climbing-oriented visitors of Sächsische Schweiz: endurance routes with clean (but long) falls and ALMOST no cracks or chimneys. This “almost” is critical, as all of the southern routes exit via an exposed traverse within an horizontal chimney. However, if this is not your cup of tea you can still rappel down from a huge ring below the characteristic roof. By the way, this same roof will protect routes during light rain, making this a top choice for those grey, uncertain days.

The fun does not end with the south face, though. At the top there is a small tower with a couple of short routes with entertaining chimneys and impressive views. Though the grades are considerably lower (II-VI) in this upper sector, the exposure is worth a visit.

Summing it up, the Bussardwand is an incredible wall perfect to break into the VIIc grade and offers great challenges for those in the VIII range. The approach walk is (as usual) uphill but comfortable and straightforward. If you are still undecided about visiting it, think it through while sleeping in the incredible bivouac sites next to the wall.

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Routes

(click on the links below to go to the available route description and/or pictures)

#

Name

Grade

#

Name

Grade

1

Alter Weg II

14

Sockelwand VIIIc

2

Variante V

15

Direkte Sockelwand VIIIc

3

Sanddüne VIIb

16

Talweg VIIb

4

Schartenweg VIIb

17

Michael Jackson VIIIb

5

Juniorenvariante VIIb

18

Bunte Wand VIIIa RP VIIIb

6

Nordostwand VIIa

19

Lange Variante VIIIb

7

Ostweg III

20

Südwand VIIc

8

Ostkante V

21

Gerade Südwand VIIIa RP VIIIb

9

Westweg VI

22

Direkte Südwand VIIc

10

Schulterschmerzen VIIa

23

Buntmalerei VIIIa RP VIIIb

11

Zittereinlage III/2

24

Linker Flügel VIIc

12

Innere Sicherheit (not shown) III

25

Der Versteckte VIIIb

13

Goldfinger IXc RP Xa

26

Direkter Versteckter VIIIb

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